THIS IS LESBIAN TOUR EUROPE
Three Interrail passes. No planned interviews. Just me, my gut, and a lot of knocking on doors to find out where the lesbians are.
These are my words from the road. This is what I discovered firsthand showing up in Rome, Sitges, Budapest, Skala Eressos, Berlin, Vienna, Hebden Bridge, and Frankfurt, to mention a few.
Read the full background to the Where Are the Lesbians? project here.
Wishing you a great read!
Gry Ellebjerg
Journalist & photographer
A TASTE OF LESBIAN EUROPE Your Pocket Guide to Queer Spaces
GUIDE Dive into the 2025 Edition of The Queer List: my curated collection of essential bars, clubs, bookshops, pop-up events, and cafés for lesbians, queer women, and non-binary people across Europe.
On the Hunt for Lesbians in Vienna
VIENNA Marea Alta, once a lesbian haven, has transformed into a hub for the broader queer community. After two evenings of encountering mostly queer men, I finally struck gold, finding the lesbians I'd been searching for.
In My Next Life I Will Reincarnate as an Artist
VIENNA Do you want to dive into a gender-fluid world and live in a never-ending pride? This visit to the art world is for you.
The Shelf Where My Story Lives
VIENNA If you ever wonder why we need physical bookstores, let me tell you about my visit to Vienna's oldest gay and lesbian bookstore, Löwenherz. Seeing shelves overflowing with books celebrating lesbian and queer lives, stories that had been so often silenced in the "normal" world, brought tears to my eyes. It was a powerful reminder of the importance of these spaces – havens where our stories are finally seen, heard, and embraced.
Glitch: A Bookshop Steeped in Feminist History
MUNICH When the original owners decided to retire, the future of Lillemor's seemed uncertain. But in a testament to the enduring spirit of feminist activism, a new collective stepped in. Four women, determined to preserve this vital space, purchased the shop and breathed new life into it as Glitch.
Behind the Red Door: Frankfurt’s Last Lesbian Bar
FRANKFURT One by one, the lesbian bars in Europe are shutting down. La Gata is one of the few left. When you open the door, it's like walking into a movie. 1970s hit you with all it's got of brown, wood panel and faded pictures of naked ladies.
The Disappearing Scene in Frankfurt
FRANKFURT Palm trees and pastel colors surrounded me at Zum Schwejk, a gay bar that felt more like a tropical escape than a place to find my tribe. I was told the lesbian scene had all but vanished, and even got the recommendation to become a gay man. Luckily, I met Julia and Alina, who gave me their take on lesbian life in this city.
The City That Showed Sandra Who She Was
MALMÖ Sandra Raciborska, the driving force behind Queer Girls Malmö, counts this memory as one of the most joyful of her lesbian journey.